"Just hanging with the boys...Fanciulli"

While recently reading an article about Fernet Branca, I came across a name that I had never seen before...Fanciulli.  This decidedly Italian twist on a Manhattan enraptured me.  As with all new discoveries, I wanted to know everything about this cocktail.

First off, what is a Fanciulli?  Fanciulli turns out is Italian slang for "the boys."  Next, I needed to know when and where it makes it's first appearance.  The drink made it's debut in The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book(1931).  The twist from using Angostura bitters to Fernet gives the Manhattan a refreshing minty finish.

The original recipe calls for half whiskey, one quarter Italian Vermouth and one quarter Fernet Branca.  Through trial and error, lots of trial and delicious errors, I have dialed in my own spin on this Manhattan riff...

Barragan's Fanciulli Recipe:

2 oz Rye or Bourbon (I chose High West BouRye)

1 oz Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth

1/2 oz Fernet Branca

Amarena Cherry

Stir all ingredients in a mixing beaker, strain into a coupe glass and garnish with a cherry

Salute to the Fanciulli!

"All hail the Count...Edmundo Dantes"

In my quest to prepare for my trip to Cuba, I delved deep into the world of rum.  I sought out as many different styles as I could get my hands on.  Prior to my trip, I had acquired over 35 different rums and was well aware of Santiago de Cuba and Havana Club Rums.  My proficiency in Cuba based cocktails had also increased exponentially. 

After one of my most memorable meals in Havana at San Cristobal Paladar, I was introduced to an anomaly. I had eaten an incredible meal and did not leave any room for dessert.  My server asked if I would like a cigar in place of dessert...well, why not?!  He proceeded to set me up with a fine Cuban cigar.  He then asked if he could offer me a very special rum...a "limitada ron"...a "limited rum".  He poured a healthy serving and then shuttled the bottle off before I could get a good look at it.  At first, I thought it was some cheap stuff just to juice me up.  With the first sip, I thought my taste buds were deceiving me...I took a swig of sparkling water and took pause...I took another sip...Superb!  This was indeed a finely crafted rum!  When the server returned several minutes later, I implored him to show me the bottle.  He returned with the bottle and left it for me to enjoy.

If you know me then you know how much I love The Count of Montecristo .  The thought of falling in love with this rum before I even knew what I was drinking..well that was just fortuitous. At that point, I knew I needed to find it.  Unfortunately, I could not find it anywhere.  Upon my return, I began my search for this mysterious Edmundo Dantes.  

Edmundo Dantes is a Limited Production from Santiago de Cuba Distillery.  Only 3000 bottles are produced annually.  This distillery is the original Bacardi facility built in 1862.  Unfortunately, the U.S. Embargo is still in effect, so it can not be shipped.  I was not going to be denied.   I located a bottle in Spain and asked a childhood friend living in England to order the bottle.  After 3 months and over 12,000 miles...my very own Edmundo Dantes has found his way to the Barragan Bar.

If you are ever fortunate enough to find this rare beauty...Salud!

In search of the HaLo...Trefethen

I remember the first time I ever tasted Trefethen's HaLo...it was love at first sip!  In my early days at Saddle Peak Lodge, a generous couple were celebrating their anniversary and had opened a bottle of this magnificently decorated Napa flagship wine.  I had tasted many of Trefethen's other wines, including Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, but had never been fortunate enough to taste the HaLo.  This silky, dark garnet beauty filled my mouth with lush fruits, hints of chocolate, subtle notes of tobacco, smoke and finished with bold tannins that carried on through a velvety finish. Exquisite! 

The Trefethen Ranch is built on the 19th century Eschol Winery and six adjoining small farms in what is now the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley.  The property was acquired in 1968 by Eugene and Catherine Trefethen.  Eugene had been a key executive for Kaiser Industries and upon his retirement, decided to buy himself a ranch and sell grapes.  John, their son, had other plans.  While studying at Stanford, he began experimenting with fermentation.  A few years later, with his new bride, Janet, they began producing Trefethen's first commercial wine.  Just three years later, the winery's 1976 Chardonnay won "Best Chardonnay in the World" honors at the 1979 Gault Millau World Wine Olympics in Paris.

Currently the tastings are poured at the Villa due to the 2014 Earthquake.  The original Eschol Winery was badly damaged, but the restoration is nearly complete and I can not wait to go back and see it!

Our special VIP tasting...amazing!

After our tasting, I wanted to know a little more about the HaLo just for my own knowledge.  Gary informed me that it is taken from John and Janet's children.  At the time, the kids were heading off to college and they wanted to entice them to come back to the Ranch once their studies were done.  What better way than to name your flagship wine after them...Hailey and Loren...HaLo

Janet enlisted a French artist to create the iconic HaLo label...this is the original artwork that hangs in the Villa Living Room

My own HaLo story is quite moving...two years ago a regular, who had gone missing for a few months showed up on a cold December night for a burger.  Steve was a standing regular on Thursday nights.  He and his buddies would come in for burgers and brews.  Steve usually drinks Diet Coke.  I was so happy to see him and I could tell he was struggling and uneasy.  I told him that I was worried about him and was happy to see him.  He went on to tell me about a knee surgery gone wrong and had just spent the better part of the past 3 months dealing with that.  After he had enjoyed his Prime Burger, I told him "Merry Christmas" and that I was happy to see him and that it was my treat.  I gave him a hug and sent him on his way.  Steve was a bit misty, thanked me and said this is just what he needed.  An hour later, Steve walked in with a bottle in hand.  He said when he got to his car he broke down in tears.  When he got home he told his wife about our time at the bar and that he needed to do something special for me.  He went on to tell me how moved he was with my gesture, that I was like an angel that lifted his spirit and that I had earned my halo.

My HaLo

The kids have returned and are poised to put their knowledge to work towards the Trefethen credo..."One Family, One Estate, One Passion."

Somm in the vineyard with the sleeping vines of the Trefethen Ranch

A big thank you to Gary for an amazing tasting and a huge thank you to the Trefethen Family for all your efforts!

A feast for the senses...Regusci

The Regusci Winery is built on the remnants of the Occidental Wine Cellar that Gaetano Regusci purchased in 1932.  This Stag's Leap District winery just happens to be the southern neighbor of none other than Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.  If you are familiar with the Silverado Trail, then you have probably driven past this gem of a winery, but if you haven't ever stopped by to visit them, then you are missing a true piece of Napa history.

This was from my first visit to the old Occidental Wine Cellar

My first visit to this historic winery was quite a story in itself.  I had arrived in Napa with a plan to visit just three wineries and then spend the rest of the time relaxing and basking in the beauty of this majestic wine country.  I had spent my first day walking and touring another Silverado Trail classic, Quintessa.  After my visit, I took a nice southern drive down the Trail and pointed out to my friend all the many fantastic wineries that were on my restaurant list.  After a nice soak in the spa at Hall's Residence, we made our way to Bouchon for dinner.  I typically start at the bar with a cocktail, so we took the corner.  A big, jovial gentleman turned and asked me how my day was.  I explained that we had spent a day at Quintessa and then had a nice drive down the Trail.  Based on my explanation of the day he assessed that I was in the business.  I told him that I was the sommelier at Saddle Peak Lodge in Malibu and was here for a little R & R.  He asked me what wineries from the Silverado Trail were on my list, so I began working my way down the list...ZD, Rudd, Paraduxx, Silverado, Pine Ridge, Stag's Leap, Regusci, Chimney Rock, Clos Du Val, Darioush, etc.  He pursued the line of questioning with, "so what wines do you have from ZD, Rudd, Darioush, etc."  I obliged the stranger and then he asked, "Regusci?! Nobody caries Regusci!"  I then told him about Regusci's Merlot...I explained that I was on a mission to bring people back to merlot and that this beautiful Napa merlot was a game changer for many "No fucking merlot" drinkers.  He laughed.  Then extended his hand and said..."by the way, I am Jim Regusci"  We spent the rest of the night talking with this gentle giant of a man and he implored that we visit him at the winery the following day.  I have wanted to share this story, but I realized later that I only had two photos from the visit and in order to do this story justice, I would have to wait till my return to show just how beautiful this place really is.  As a side note, on the day of my last visit, I had told Mary Pat from Spottswoode that I would be stopping by Regusci later that day.  She told me how much she loved that winery!  Mary Pat had previously been employed at Stag's Leap and her office faced the old Occidental Winery.  She said she would often gaze out the window and stare at the magnificence of Regusci.  

Jim will be the first to tell you that he is a farmer.  He truly loves the idea of farming in a sustainable atmosphere and currently farms over 2,230 acres of vineyards.  In 1996, this family of farmers came full circle and started a winery.  Their first crush was 1,900 cases.  Today, they produce 6,500 cases of Estate wine.

The beautiful fountain that welcomes visitors

The dormant winter vines

Walking among the vines is always a pleasing experience

This was from my first visit, unfortunately most of this was draped for winter weather

Just more of the beautiful things you will see walking the grounds

I love how the winery sits back from the Trail...so peaceful

Regusci will forever hold a special place in my heart.  I have built so many amazing friendships here in Napa, but this chance meeting with Jim is one of my fondest memories.  Their story is one built on a family legacy and I implore you to stop by and visit his beautiful winery the next time you are in the area.

Cheers to the Regusci Family and all their efforts!

Littorai...plural derivative of the Latin word Litor, which means the coasts.

Mention this Latin word to a Somm and they will tell you about a bad ass named, Ted Lemon.  I had the pleasure of meeting this guy many years ago and have loved and admired his wines ever since.  Ted is a true pioneer in the wine making industry.  His lifelong career began by receiving his Enology degree from the Universite de Dijon in 1981.  He worked at many prestigious wine estates in Burgundy, Domaine Georges Roumier, Domaine Dujac and Domaine de Villaine, just to name a few.  He was the first American to ever be a vineyard manager of a Burgundian estate and then eventually selected as winemaker, again a first!

Did you know?...as a nod to his nickname given by his Burgundian bretheren, each label is stamped with a "Comte de Lemon"

Ted's approach to wine making is one deeply rooted in Burgundian notion of terroir.  He has integrated his farming practices using traditional, agro-ecological and biodynamic principles.  Currently, Ted's farm sits on thirty acres atop a western Sonoma County hill.  On this site is Ted's complete vision of creating a living and breathing farm with a pulse.  This pulse is felt by all who visit this special place.

The Littorai Winery on the left, wetlands in the foreground and the Pivot Vineyard in the distance

All of the water used in wine production is recycled through an eco-sensitive constructed wetlands.  In the wetlands, plants naturally treat and recycle the water for reuse as irrigation water on the property.

The wetlands in the foreground with Ted's cows and again the Pivot Vineyard in the distance

As with all biodynamic vineyards, the goal is to produce a farm that is harmonious in nature and utilizes the resources produced within this environment.  Eight acres of the property are woods and streams, never to be developed.  Fourteen acres are open pasture dedicated to providing a home for the cows and hay which form the basis of their compost.  One quarter of these pasturelands are re-sown with legumes, grains and grasses every year.  Only natural teas and compost are applied to maintain the vigor of the greenery.  I was also surprised to hear that they are re-establishing native evergreen oak grasslands on three additional acres and restoring Redwood forests to the stream banks...talk about leaving something for future generations!

These are the drying tables for the many different herbs, plants, flowers and roots that will make up the teas

Ted's display of terroir from the B.A. Thieriot Vineyard...one of my favs!

Ted's own Pivot Vineyard

Somm in the vineyard

And this is Beau!

The winery is an innovative strawbale building with "green" architecture and environmentally and low impact-sensitive design.  The winery uses natural light air cooling to maintain appropriate temperatures for the cellars and working areas.  Of course it is built as a gravity flow site, so as not to employ any pneumatic pumps.

The tasting was set right in the winery with five different reds and two whites.  The wines were all incredibly balanced and show the difference between their individual and respective terroir.  Many times people will ask me, "what is your favorite wine?"  My response is always the same, depends on what I am doing, who I am with, what I am eating, but if you ask me for my favorite Pinot Noir's...this will always make the list!  

That is one happy Somm!

The man, the myth, the legend...Ted Lemon!

Seek these wines out because they are truly handcrafted beauties!

Thank you Ted for all your hard work and care of the land that you till...the proof is clearly evident! 

  

Halloween...Walking Dead...ZOMBIE!

There is no better time of year to visit one of the most quintessential of Tiki drinks, Don the Beachcomber's Zombie.  The drink has been shrouded in mystery since Don first started mixing it.  According to his own bartender's, they poured the ingredients from marked bottles.  What made this drink so popular is the fact that there was a "two per person limit".  I have used this advertising gimmick to overwhelming success, in creating "taboo" cocktails, in the past.

As with all cocktails, I check multiple sources to verify ingredients and techniques.  David Embury, in his The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, begins by professing that "this is undoubtedly the most over advertised, overemphasized, over exalted, and foolishly feared drink whose claims to glory ever assaulted the eyes and ears of the gullible American public."  Wow!  How do you really feel, David?  His disgust is clear, but he gives a pretty good recipe despite his final jab at Don...here is his recipe...

1 tsp Sugar Syrup 
1/2 to 3/4 oz Lime Juice
1/4 oz Fresh Pineapple Juice
1 oz White Label Rum
2 oz Gold Label Rum
1 oz Jamaica Rum *David claims the 151 Demerara Rum is insufficient for a good drink
2 tsp Apricot Liqueur
1/2 oz to 3/4 oz Mysterious Ingredient*

Another interesting Zombie cocktail that I found was in Charles Baker Jr.'s, The Gentlemen's Companion.  His cocktail comes by way of The Republic of Haiti and truly departs from any Zombie cocktail that I have come across.  Rather than a rum based cocktail, he begins with 3 ounces of Cognac.  The drink also includes 1 1/2 cups of enriched coconut milk, 1/2 oz of Maraschino, 2 dashes of Angostura and served over finely cracked ice.  This sounds interesting, but to date, I have not made this particular version.

I have settled on Dr. Cocktail's version in his Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails.  He goes on to tell a story about a barbecue manual written and signed by Don himself.  "I originated and have served this 'thing' since 1934...anyone that says otherwise is a liar!!- signed 'DON'."  That being said, the Zombie mentioned in Charles Baker's book predates this by five years...just sayin...  following is Dr. Cocktail's recipe...

1 tsp brown sugar
1 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
1 oz Gold Puerto Rican Rum
1 oz 151 proof Demerara Rum
1 oz White Puerto Rican Rum
1 oz Unsweetened Pineapple Juice
1 oz Fresh Lime Juice
1 oz Passion Fruit Syrup
1 dash of Angostura Bitters

I needed several of these to get over the last episode of the Walking Dead!  Damn You!

The September Morn

Yet another classic Rum cocktail...this drink immediately caught my eye because it is based on another beloved cocktail, The Clover Club.  I just read about this in my recently acquired "The Gentlemen's Companion".  The author, Charles H. Baker, Jr., talks about this cocktail and mentions that he first discovered it in "the month of January 1926" which left me wondering, who originally documented the September Morn? 

Excerpt from The Gentlemen's Companion

"The Ideal Bartender" by Tom Bullock (1917) seems to be the first cocktail book to mention The September Morn, but he lists it with a base ingredient of Old Tom Gin.  As clearly stated in the excerpt above, this would make it a Clover Club.  Every other classic cocktail book that I have tracked as listing The September Morn, lists it as a rum based drink.  In this particular case, my research showed that one writer/bartender just didn't get all his facts straight.

As mentioned in "The Gentlemen's Companion", Mr. Baker first had this cocktail at the Hotel Inglaterra in Havana, Cuba.  This neoclassic hotel opened on December 23, 1875 and as of August 31, 2016, it is the first U.S. managed hotel since the Cuban Revolution.

Hotel Inglaterra, Havana, Cuba

Mr. Baker notes that the Polo Club in the Manila adds a bit of French Dry Vermouth to their September Morn, which is oddly enough, how I make my Clover Club.  I am not sure what I will find when I visit the Hotel Inglaterra next month, but I will certainly inquire if they still shake this classic...

for now, here is my rendition...

Barragan's September Morn

1 1/2 oz Bacardi Rum

1/2 oz Dolin Dry Vermouth

1 oz Lemon Juice

1 oz Raspberry Syrup (nothing beats homemade goodness)

1 egg white

3 fresh raspberies for garnish (things are just better in three's)

Begin with putting all ingredients in a shaker without ice.  Shake vigorously for 30 seconds.  Add ice and shake for additional 30 seconds.  Strain into a chilled coupe glass and garnish with 3 fresh raspberries.  This drink is light and refreshing...perfect for a humid day in Havana!

Salud!