Wednesday, September 10, 2014

"Brown Derby or De Rigueur?"


There seems to be a quandary that surrounds the tasty cocktail pictured above...is it The Brown Derby Cocktail?  is it the De Rigueur?  Really depends on who you ask and what coast they prefer...I am a So Cal native and this is The Brown Derby.  

The debate begins with who claimed it first.  Harry Craddock published his "The Savoy Cocktail Book" in 1930 and lists a De Rigueur Cocktail which is described as Whisky, Grapefruit Juice and Honey.  Hollywood legend also lays claim to a cocktail  from the Vendome Club during the same period and is named after a famous hat-shaped restaurant on Wilshire Boulevard that opened in 1926.  So is it a matter of dates?... publishing rights?... who decides?



Every cocktail historian will debate their side so please allow me the pleasure...I first learned of this cocktail while reading Dale DeGroff's book several years back.  His recipe is bourbon, grapefruit juice and honey syrup.  Now, knowing a bit about cocktails and history, here is my plea.  Every recipe I have come across regarding The Brown Derby lists bourbon as the base.  Craddock says whisky in his book which could mean any number of different things, including...Scotch, Irish, Canadian.  Our native spirit is bourbon whiskey, with an -e.  Craddock was bartending in London and during prohibition the chances of bourbon making it's way to merry England in 1930 does not seem as likely as some other base spirits.  It's splitting hairs, but you present a better case and we will debate it then.



*This is the Los Feliz location


*The interior of Messhall, the old Brown Derby location on Los Feliz

I have made my case for this classic bourbon cocktail and the next time you are in the area stop and see the next generation of crafty cocktails at the Messhall on Los Feliz and taste the next evolution of craft cocktails.

Barragan's Brown Derby Cocktail:
2 oz of Bourbon
1 oz of Grapefruit (preferably Ruby Red)
3/4 oz Orange Blossom Honey Syrup (1 part honey, 1 part water)
dash of Fee Brother's Grapefruit Bitters 
combine all ingredients and shake in a mixing cup. Strain into a cocktail glass.
garnish with Grapefruit zest





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